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This design by Clayton Boyer is written up in February 2009 issue of the NAWCC Bulletin.  


Upon reading the plans which are from Clayton’s  Masochist’s Corner the clock is a little intimidating, not by its complexity but rather the opposite, by its simplicity.  At the same time the really simple things often make huge demands on accuracy.


Clayton Boyer’s article in the February 2009 issue of the NAWCC

This ingenious design has no wheel teeth, no pinions.

A simple jig needs to be constructed so that the “One Wheel” can be accurately drilled to receive the escape teeth or better called pins.

The jig allows for the 30 - step by step rotation of the 1/2” escape wheel so that 3/16” holes can be drilled.

This escape wheel is also the great wheel and has the clicks mounted on its hub.

My optical center punch is shown here.  All index holes, daisy wheel locating pins and click pins are located with the optical center punch and marked.

Using a sanding disc and a jig for truing wheels, the Great / Escape Wheels is trued.

The escape wheel is mounted on the jig with the locating pin placed.  The jig has been clamped to  the drill press and remains fixed until all 30 holes are drilled.

The escape tooth rings are made of Wenje wood and formed by a sanding disc in two steps - first a rough rounding and secondly through a finishing pass.

The doweling had to be sanded lightly in order to be driven into the wheel.  The rings friction fitted and only two broke in the work of placing them.

All the escape pins are in place and ready for scroll work on the spokes.

The very attractive wheel is finished and ready for the next steps.

The crescent back frame is made up of four parts that meet at an “intersection”

Two parts make up the actual crescent and meet at a “butt” joint in the center of the crescent.  I have used flamed maple for the frame.

The cross member of the frame fits into a notch of the main crescent.

The cross member has two parts and both are shown here.

The actual joint is shown here.  They are only dry fitted at this point.  Since the front frame aligns both holes and the back frame I used hot glue for this joint

The front frame is a duplicate of the two part cross member of the back frame.  The hot glued back frame could easily be “adjusted” to align with the front frame.

The front and back frames are glued together.

This is the 30 pin - Pin Wheel it is cut from 1/2 inch baltic birtch ply

The stabilizing ring is cut from 1/4 inch ply and glued directly on top of the 1/2 ply

The Pin Wheel has been cut with the 1/16 inch holes drilled for the pins.  All holes were center punched with an optical center punch before drilling.

The stabilizing wheel was then drilled and cut.  The pins were placed in the stabilizing ring and four of them made proud for alignment on the solid wheel.

Glue was applied to the stabilizing ring and the four pins started in the Pin Wheel.  The remaining pins were snug enough to hold the pieces together without clamping

The Daisy Wheel is a series of segments of circles which makes it easy to make a DFX file for the CNC machine

The “Tri” rides the Daisy Wheel and I haven’t taken the time to work out exactly how but that will come later

The impulse wheel has two radial holes and finite angle on the impulse face which made it a little more interesting to cut.  I opted to make it of Wenge wood to get a smooth face.

The click wheel is pretty garden variety with six ratchet teeth.

The silent clicks number five and will eventually take up residence on the winding drum

This shows the spacial layout for the clicks and the click wheel.

The glue up of the winding drum  and ratchet is made much easier by using the drill press as a clamp.

The hip arm fine adjuster is a “sub assembly” shown here

The Hip Arm is cut from 1/2” ply.

The weight support and magnet housing don’t present any problems but my magnet is quite a bit larger than the one indicated on the drawings.

The torsion weights are four 10 oz. fishing weights.  They extend well beyond their support and careful attachment is indicated.

The detent.  It took me 5 tries and some helpful photos from Clayton to understand what was required and then construct it.

The minute hand has an off centre hub that is drilled with the help of a jig.

The hour hand needs to be balanced and that is accomplished by some careful sanding.

The pendulum suspension frame is provided in three different sizes to account for the differences in the torsion element of the pendulum.  This one is the mid-size

The lower element is the adjustable frame for the centering magnet

The frame of the clock with Clayton’s usual artistic sense for curves.

The pin wheel is glued to the escape wheel using the 1/16” alignment dowels.

To assemble all the bits a pieces I screw mount the clock frame to my test “2 X 4”  that gets clamped into a vice.  The pendulum is suspended at this point.

The center arbor holds the winding drums, the ratchet, the clicks, the escape, the pin wheel, the daisy, the tri and both the hour and minute hand.  WOW!

This is a close-up of the Tri which carries the hour hand and is moved by the rotation of the Daisy.  

This time train came from a clock made by Aaron Dodd Crane from the turn of last century.  Clayton carefully studied the train and reverse engineered this version

Upon testing the clock I found that the hole in the wheel was not exactly in the center - it was about 1/32” out and that cause the clock to run away.

After plugging the center hole and re-drilling (twice) I got a centered hole and the clock is running.  I still need to get the right period of the torsion pendulum but  that will come.